The 6.0L Powerstroke is one of the most modded diesel engines in America — and for good reason. With proper tuning and supporting modifications, it makes serious power. But the stock turbo is the first bottleneck every owner hits. Here's how to choose the right upgrade for your goals.
Understanding the Stock Turbo Limitation
The factory turbo on the 6.0L is a Garrette GT37 — adequate for stock power but quickly overwhelmed once you add tuning, larger injectors, or delete the EGR. Compressor lag becomes pronounced, exhaust temperatures spike, and you hit a ceiling around 400-450 rwhp before the turbo simply can't flow enough air to keep up.
Upgrading the turbo gives you three things: faster spool, higher peak flow, and headroom for future power. But "turbo upgrade" is a vague term. Stage 1, Stage 2, and Stage 3 represent very different turbos with very different price points and installation complexity.
Stage 1 — Garrette GT37/GT38 Upgraded Wheel
Stage 1 isn't a new turbo — it's the stock turbo with a precision-machined 360-degree thrust bearing upgrade, balanced rotating assembly, and sometimes a ported compressor housing. The stock compressor wheel is replaced with a trimmed 7-blade unit.
Best for: Work trucks, tow rigs, daily drivers making 400-500 rwhp. If you just want better throttle response and reliability without tearing into the engine, Stage 1 is the move.
Stage 2 — Garrette GTX37 / BorgWarner S300 Frame
Stage 2 is a purpose-built hybrid turbo built in a single-scroll (non-VGT) configuration using a larger compressor wheel in a modified housing. Common options include the S366 from a Duramax swap or the BorgWarner eFR stainless steel wheel units.
These require custom or upgraded downpipe piping and often a different manifold, but they bolt to the stock Y-bridge. Expect 500-650 rwhp capability with supporting mods.
Stage 3 — Compound / Twin-Turbo / S400 / S500
Stage 3 is for serious power. Options include:
- Compound turbos — A small fast-spooling primary feeding a larger secondary. Best throttle response at the cost of some peak flow efficiency.
- Single large-frame — S400, S500, or equivalent in a T4 housing. Makes big peak power but significant turbo lag below 2500 RPM.
- PD1710 / S369 — Common swap on 6.0Ls. Requires adapter pedestal and external wastegate plumbing but handles 600-800 rwhp reliably.
Stage 3 requires supporting mods: upgraded fuel system, head studs, EGR delete, and proper tuning. This is not a bolt-on.
Turbo Stage Comparison
| Stage 1 | Stage 2 | Stage 3 | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Typical HP | 400–500 rwhp | 500–650 rwhp | 600–900+ rwhp |
| Spool Character | Faster than stock | Moderate lag | Significant lag (big frame) |
| Installation | Direct swap, OEM manifold | Downpipe + piping mods | Full manifold + pedestal + plumbing |
| Supporting Mods | Tuning only | Tuning + fuel upgrades | Head studs, fuel, EGR delete, tuned |
| Recommended Use | Work Truck / Tow Hauler | Daily Driver / Tow Hauler | Race Truck / Competition |
| Price Range | $600–$1,200 | $1,500–$3,500 | $3,500–$8,000+ |
Durability by Driving Style
Work Truck (Rating 1)
Stage 1 or optimized stock turbo. Keep the VGT function if your truck has it. Prioritize reliability over peak power. A Garrett GT37 with upgraded journal bearings and a re-clocked compressor housing will outlive anything you throw at it.
Tow Hauler (Rating 2)
Stage 1 or Stage 2 depending on weight and frequency. If you're towing 12,000+ lbs regularly, Stage 2 with a tune is the better investment — the bigger turbo maintains exhaust temperatures better under load, which extends turbo and engine life.
Daily Driver (Rating 3)
Stage 2 is the sweet spot. With street tuning, the compound-style hybrids (like the BorgWarner eFR) offer strong midrange without the brutal lag of a big single. Budget $3,000-4,000 installed.
Race Truck (Rating 4)
Stage 3, full stop. S400 or S500 in a T4 pedestal, ported and polished housing, external wastegate, proper fueling. Expect to spend $6,000-10,000 when you account for the supporting mods required to safely make 700+ rwhp.
Which Turbo Should You Choose?
Start with your power goal. If you want 450 rwhp for towing and occasional fun — Stage 1 with a good tune. If you want 600+ rwhp and don't mind working on your truck — Stage 2 with supporting mods. If you're building a race truck — Stage 3 from day one and do it right the first time.
Browse our turbo and exhaust category for upgrade turbos, manifolds, and gaskets. Every turbo we carry is rated for the driving style that matches your goals — filter by durability to find the right fit.